Stories about Cambodia

  CAMBODIA'S PAIN, AMERICA'S SHAME - After escaping the Khmer Rouge genocide, hundreds of Cambodian refugees reached safety in America, only to wind up, decades later, deported to a land many never even knew. Blame tightening immigration laws and the hysteria over Homeland Security, as America not only failed to provide promised shelter, but offers no access to appeal, let alone human decency, simply stamping them: Return to Sender.

  NEW CAMBODIAN ARCHITECTURE - New architectural forms arise rarely, especially in Asia, where much of the great creations arose centuries ago. That was the case with the great Khmer civilization that created magnificent Angkor. Yet a half century ago, as Cambodia celebrated its rebirth in independence, a spate of new construction ensued, much in the style increasingly celebrated as New Khmer Architecture.

  PHNOM PENH ARCHITECTURE - Capital cities around Asia grew madly during the regional economic boom, but war kept Cambodia in a stagnant state. Yet slow growth meant that much of Phnom Penh's architecture is intact. This includes fine colonial treasures from old Indochine, a mix of churches and Chinese temples, and an unique school of New Khmer Architecture. All can be seen in a delightful guided tour.

  PHNOM PENH'S NEW LOOK - War-torn and forlorn for decades, Cambodia's capital is bouncing back as an edgy new destination. With glorious colonial-era buildings being turned into boutique hotels and trendy bars, cool views over a river whose flow reverses every year, and an intoxicating slow pace, Phnom Penh is back on the tourist maps.
  ASIA'S HOT NEW ART ENCLAVE - Move over Ubud and Hanoi, Asia has a hot new arts enclave - Siem Reap, upcountry in Cambodia. This riverside town serves as gateway to the temples of Angkor, and swarms with tourists. Now, the laid-back lifestyle is attracting scores of regional artists, and fueling a boom in art galleries.

  CAMBODIA'S COOL COAST - Hailed as Asia's new Riviera, the southern coast of Cambodia is booming, with new resorts, restaurants and spas. Tourists swarm to Sihanoukville, but the chic set head to Kep, a sleepy seaside town that has been the in-destination for decades.

NEW FACE OF CAMBODIAN CAPITALISM -  Nobody better embodies the frontier style and risky nature of business in this war-torn country than Kith Meng, who is helping to transform this former economic backwater into one of Asia's best performing economies

CAMBODIAN BUILDING BOOM - Asia's economic basket-case has become the region's new tiger, roaring as double-digit growth rates fuel a frenzy of new development projects. As dozens of high-rises reshape a skyline of mostly three-story buildings in the capital of Phnom Penh, Cambodia is experiencing its first construction boom in 1,000 years.

THE KING'S LAST SONG - Amidst all the books about the glories of ancient Angkor or forgettable tales from recent aid workers, Geoff Ryman has delivered a Cambodian volume that is truly novel, and well worth a read.

TRIBULATIONS AT TRIAL - Cambodians have waited three decades for justice to come to the Killing Fields, where nearly 20 percent of the population died. An odd UN Tribunal brought hope, but after a year, still no court cases, only more controversy. Sadly, survivors of the ruthless Khmer Rouge will just have to wait a little longer.

ANGKOR: OVER? - Cambodia's Angkor temples are an undisputed world wonder. After decades of war, they are finally open to tourism, which is vital to this poor country. But the arrival of mass tourism in a corrupt country ill equipped for the boom, makes many wonder whether tourists will love the ancient wonder of Angkor to death.

  CAPITAL CUISINE - Phnom Penh has long claimed a wide array of international restaurants, but these have been renowned across Asia more for hearty servings and cheap prices than quality or atmosphere. But a trio of new Cambodian restaurants raise the bar higher.

A SURVIVOR'S STORY - The Cambodia Tribunal hopes to gather victims, explain the carnage and foster reconciliation with the Khmer Rouge, three decades after their murderous rule. But the same thing has already been done, rather well, by a shocking film, "S-21: The Khmer Rouge Killing Machine.”

BACK TO YEAR ZERO - In his "The Lost Executioner," photographer Nic Dunlop offers unique perspective on Cambodia, his focus for over a decade. His book details his discovery of Duch, the Khmer Rouge death camp commandant. Part detective, more self-discovery tale, it also offers new insight to the tragedy of Cambodia.

A TASTE OF HOPE -  Phnom Penh lacks paved streets and honest police, but it's always had plenty of pizza, including Herb's popular pot-laced pies. So, why all the excitement over the opening of Pizza Company? It brings Cambodia it's first franchise restaurant.

THE URGE TO MERGE - Every year in Cambodia, as the murky waters of the Tonle Sap reverse their flow into the infamous Mekong River, the annual aquatic miracle casts a romantic spell on the capital, putting young couples in the mood for matrimony

 Cambodian deportee with tattoos courtesy of Stuart Isett (©2008 Stuart Isett - http://isett.com)
 Wedding picture and Phnom Penh's new look by David Paul Morris;  all others by Ron Gluckman

All words and images are copyright RON GLUCKMAN, protected by international law barring any reproduction or reprint without the permission of Ron Gluckman

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