the latest from reporter ron gluckman

Here's the latest work from around the world by Ron Gluckman.
(Note, new China stories are filed separately in new stuff from China.)

  JUNGLE PHOTO FEST - Every fall, some of the world's best photographers gather in one of the world's oldest, and most impressive cities, for the Angkor Photography Festival. Workshops are held, skills passed to a new generation of photojournalists, and fans drawn to the surreal surroundings of ancient Angkor. There is a certain magic in the location, and spirit of giving back.

  BILL'S EXCELLENT ADVENTURE - From Asia's youngest self-made millionaire, American-turned-Thai magnate Bill Heinecke has matured as he built an empire that spans retail, resorts and restaurants. His business has taken some hits, particularly with the downturn in Thai tourism, but this upbeat entrepreneur just keeps finding new opportunities for expansion.

  HIGH-FLYER - Nobody expected that much when a Malaysian entrepreneur took over a pair of old airplanes and millions in debt, launching Asia's first budget airline. But Tony Fernandes quickly brought it to profit and turned it into one of the world's best, expanded to long haul and opened a string of budget hotels. Now he has a basketball league and seems to have no limits to his low-cost game.

  PRINCE OF PROFIT - In the midst of the worldwide recession, even after losing $8-10 million of his own fortune, Saudi Prince Alwaleed bin Talal doesn't dwell on his misfortune or the devastating loses. Ever the optimist, this upbeat, reformist prince instead plans a spending spree. In such uncertain times, he sees nothing but opportunity.

SEAHORSES VS SINGAPORE SAND - Dredges supplying Singapore with sand are sucking up the reefs and a rare population of seahorses off the coast of Cambodia. A recent ban has provided a respite for the pristine coastline, but the question is whether it will be enforced by Cambodia's corrupt government, and for long enough to save the Seahorses.

ELEPHANT POLO - Every year, in the North of Thailand, and in Nepal and Sri Lanka, a horde of massive mammals and riders face off in mock battles, wielding mallets, and wowing crowds. It's painfully slow, undeniably silly, and bears scant resemblance to sport, but it raises awareness and money for Asia's embattled elephants.

KO LANTA - Samui and Phuket get all the attention, and most of the tourists, leaving Ko Lanta, Thailand's third largest island in a sleepy, serene state, which isn't a bad thing. But, with the country' s largest Muslim population, vast rubber plantations and stunning beaches, Lanta's idyllic secret is slipping out.

- THE PULL OF PAKSE  - Gateways to the lush Boloven Plateau and close to the pre-Angkor ruins of Vat Phou, the southern Laos town of Pakse is often treated as a staging grounds, but there is plenty of reason to linger in this cool riverside city.

- THE TAO OF LAO   - Long closed to the outside world, Laos is suddenly hip, and even the quiet capital of Vientiane is starting to feel the tourism boom. Although, like everything in Laos, the boom is slow and measured, thankfully so.

- INDOCHINE RIVIERA  - White beaches and uncut forests are the norm in a wide swatch of seaside from Vietnam to Thailand, including some of Southeast Asia's last undeveloped islands off the coast of Cambodia. But developers plan a massive wave of developments including luxury villa resorts and yachting marinas, as a gold rush has begun along what many call the Indochine Riviera.

- CAMBODIAN LAND GRAB - The coastal free-for-old is only one facet of an unprecedented land grab in corrupt Cambodia, where an economic boom hasn't trickled down to locals, vast numbers of which are being made landless while foreign investors grab vast tracts of land as leaders line their pockets in what is shaping up as a world-class land grab.

- CHINESE HOUSE  - One of oldest Chinese shop houses in Phnom Penh escapes the wrecking ball of redevelopment and it reborn as a cool, heritage-rich bar and art gallery, Chinese House.

- CAMBODIA's IT CUISINE  - Long derided for its lack of spice, the subtlety, or starvation policies of the Khmer Rouge, Cambodian cookery is being hailed as the world's new It Cuisine. A new cookbook showcases the country's culinary creativity, from spiders to water lillies.

- BATTLE FOR BOEUNG KAK LAKE - Despite a booming economy, the biggest threat to the poor in an impoverished nation in Cambodia can be prosperity. Case in point, Boeung Kak Lake in Phnom Penh, where developers are working with the corrupt Cambodian government to evict thousands of refuges who found shelter in swampland, only to be threatened by the biggest relocations since the Khmer Rouge emptied the cities.

  - MEKONG RIVER DOLPHINS - Pushed to the edge of extinction, a rare variety of freshwater dolphin is making a fin-al stand in a scenic stretch of the Mekong, in remote Laos and Cambodia. Locals who used to fish the dolphins are now embracing them as the driving force of an ambitious development program designed to alleviate poverty and use tourism to save the species.

  - VIETNAM'S PHU QUOC - The white-sand beaches are still deserted, but won't be for long, as more visitors are discovering Asia's latest, perhaps last, great island getaway, among the palms on idyllic Phu Quoc.

  BON LISBON - After tracing evocative Portuguese influences in food, architecture and culture, for decades across Asia, Africa and Latin America, a travel writer finally gets a taste of the real thing - and instantly falls in love with Lisbon.

  WORLD'S TALLEST TOWER - The race to build the biggest skyscraper long ago moved from America to Asia, then to the Middle East. In the process, buildings have grown breathtakingly taller. Still, nothing seen before can prepare skyscraper spotters for the towering Burj Dubai.

  SPROUTING ISLANDS  - If the world seems too limited, all you need to do is rebuild it in your own vision; the universe too. That's the plan in Dubai, where the Palm projects have sprouted a popular - and profitable - real estate scheme - artificial-island creation.

  ASIAN MUSEUM - For centuries, Portugal pioneered a path across Asia, exposing Europe to the wonders of the East. Now, two decades in the making, a new museum explores the legacy of those early links, as Europe's top new Asian art museum opens in Lisbon.

  ENDLESS WONDER - One of the world's fastest growing water sports, kitesurfing's buzz is all about the powerful force of the wind, which sends enthusiasts soaring euphorically into the sky. Fans quit jobs, pack boards and roam the globe, seeking the perfect breezes. No better winds blow than across the pristine beaches, nestled amongst spectacular sand dunes, than in Vietnam's Mui Ne.

  WORLD'S SMALLEST HOTEL - With just a single room, the One Hotel offers the ultimate in exclusivity, along with plenty of pampering in Siem Reap, gateway to the majestic temples of Cambodia's Angkor. And, to avoid any booking problems, eccentric hotelier Martin Dishman has just come up with Plan Be.

  CAMBODIA'S PAIN, AMERICA'S SHAME - After escaping the Khmer Rouge genocide, hundreds of Cambodian refugees reached safety in America, only to wind up, decades later, deported to a land many never knew. Blame tightening immigration laws and the hysteria over Homeland Security, as America not only failed to provide shelter, but offers no access to appeal, let alone human decency, simply stamping them: Return to Sender.

  NEW CAMBODIAN ARCHITECTURE - New architectural forms arise rarely, especially in Asia, where most great creations arose centuries ago. That was the case with the great Khmer civilization that created magnificent Angkor. Yet a half century ago, as Cambodia celebrated its rebirth in independence, a spate of new construction ensued, much in the unique style increasingly celebrated as New Khmer Architecture.

  PHNOM PENH ARCHITECTURE - Capital cities around Asia grew madly during the regional economic boom, but war kept Cambodia in a stagnant state. Yet slow growth meant that much of Phnom Penh's architecture is intact. This includes fine colonial treasures from old Indochine, a mix of churches and Chinese temples, and an unique school of New Khmer Architecture. All can be seen in a delightful guided tour.

TRENDY THONG LO - In the north of Thailand's capital, a collection of cool bars, boutiques and restaurants, plus a unique style of minimalist design malls has lured all the local hipsters to what is increasingly renowned as one of Asia's hippest districts.

  PHNOM PENH'S NEW LOOK - War-torn and forlorn for decades, Cambodia's capital is bouncing back as an edgy new destination. With glorious colonial-era buildings being turned into boutique hotels and trendy bars, cool views over a river whose flow reverses every year, and an intoxicating slow pace, Phnom Penh is back on the tourist maps.

  ASIA'S HOT NEW ART ENCLAVE - Move over Ubud and Hanoi, Asia has a hot new arts enclave - Siem Reap, upcountry in Cambodia. This riverside town serves as gateway to the temples of Angkor, and swarms with tourists. Now, the laid-back lifestyle is attracting scores of regional artists, and fueling a boom in art galleries.

  CAMBODIA'S COOL COAST - Hailed as Asia's new Riviera, the southern coast of Cambodia is booming, with new resorts, restaurants and spas. Tourists swarm to Sihanoukville, but the chic set head to Kep, a sleepy seaside town that has been the in-destination for decades.

  COWBOY CAPITALIST - He's been called the new face of capitalism in Cambodia. Nobody better embodies the frontier style and risky nature of business in this war-torn country than Kith Meng, who is helping to transform this former economic backwater into one of Asia's best performing economies

CAMBODIAN BUILDING BOOM - Asia's economic basket-case has suddenly become the region's new tiger, roaring as double-digit growth rates fuel a frenzy of new development projects. As dozens of high-rises reshape a skyline of mostly three-story buildings in the capital of Phnom Penh, Cambodia is experiencing its first construction boom in 1,000 years.

HO CHI MINH HIP - Once the most freewheeling city in Asia, a few decades after the war, former Saigon is roaring once again. A brand new look at one of Asia's most exciting and colorful cities. With scores of chic clubs, swank new hotels, a vibrant arts scene and killer cuisine, Ho Chi Minh is hip.

REMAKING MALLS SMALL - Most of the world's biggest shopping malls are under construction in Asia, where the byword seems to be the bigger, the glitzier, the better. But a new style of minimalist, well-designed mall has found success in Bangkok, and could redefine shopping across Asia.

AIR ASIA FLYING HIGH - Called Asia's answer to Richard Branson, former music executive Tony Fernandes took over a bankrupt Malaysian carrier, launched Air Asia and watched it soar as the region's largest passenger carrier. The cost-cutting king is eyeing new routes including long-haul service, but always keeping to the mantra: Now, everyone can fly.

MR CONDOM - Once one of the world's AIDS hotspots, Thailand turned a corner, taking the safe-sex message into the bars of Bangkok's red-light district. Much of the success can be traced to tireless health education advocate Mechai Viravaidya, Thailand's Mr Condom.

POO PAPER - A Sri Lankan conservationist turns elephant poop into high-quality recycled paper. In the process, he not only provides a livelihood for hundreds of rural Sri Lankans, but puts a profit in the protection of local pachyderms.

PENANG ON THE REBOUND - Asia's first resort island of Penang fell on hard times in recent decades, as tourists flocked to new beaches with a bigger buzz, from Bali to Phuket. But this historic port is in the midst of a renaissance, trading on its rich heritage and spectacular cuisine to lure back a new generation of holidaymakers: Penang is on the rise.

NUCLEAR GLOW - Asia is buzzing about the potential of nuclear power, amidst concerns over global warming and energy security. Plans for numerous plans across Southeast Asia has led to a revival of the nuclear industry, and renewed protests from critics. Thailand is leading the way in the new nuclear charge.

BEST OF BANGKOK - From riverfront restaurants, perfect for watching the boats and barges, to the most elegant hotels and nightclubs, Bangkok has a special buzz, and we've captured it all for Dwell Magazine in this special guide to the best of the city.

VIVA MACAU!! - Forgotten for over a century, Europe's first outpost in the Far East languished in the shadow of Hong Kong, the more robust, vastly richer British colony across the Pearl River Delta. But now Macau is being reborn as China's Las Vegas, only much bigger.

BANGKOK BREATHES EASIER - Once blighted by belching buses and thick smog, Bangkok cleaned up its act and air over recent decades. Cutting motorcycle emissions and adding an overhead subway helped Bangkok grow greener, and a model for the rest of Asia.

THE KING'S LAST SONG - Amidst all the books about the glories of ancient Angkor or forgettable tales from recent aid workers, Geoff Ryman has delivered a Cambodian volume that is truly novel, and well worth a read.

BUILDING A BETTER GARDEN OF EDEN - When Asian resorts seek plush landscaping, fantasy gardens that justify prices of $1000 per night and up (and up), Bill Bensely is the go-to guy. In demand from Bali to Bangkok, this Harvard-educated architect has gradually gravitated from the grounds to inside, now designing everything from resorts to palaces for royalty.

SOARING SKYSCRAPERS - The battle to build the world's tallest tower, once essentially an American obsession, is now a worldwide craze, with much of the biggest erections in Asia and the Middle East. As buildings reach higher and higher, there is seemingly no upper limit to the quest to claim the world's tallest highrise.

PARADISE MAINTAINED - As more and more resorts spread across these gorgeous islands and atolls, the Maldives has shown a remarkable ability to sustain the onslaught not only of the tsunami, but also mass tourism. With some of the world's most luxurious - and expensive resorts - the Maldives seems the very picture of paradise.

TRIBULATIONS AT TRIAL - Cambodians have waited three decades for justice to come to the Killing Fields, where nearly 20 percent of the population died. An odd UN Tribunal brought hope, but after a year, still no court cases, only more controversy. Sadly, survivors of the ruthless Khmer Rouge will just have to wait a little longer.

DESERT BOOM - A sleepy stretch of sand visited mainly by the odd camel camel over the centuries, Qatar is in the midst of a massive spending spree, on skyscrapers, museums and hotels - like much of the Gulf region. But unlike its flashy neighbor of Dubai, Qatar has much more modest targets for its seemingly endless gas dollars.

ANGKOR: OVER? - Cambodia's Angkor temples are an undisputed world wonder. After decades of war, they are finally open to tourism, which is vital to this poor country. But the arrival of mass tourism in a corrupt country ill equipped for the boom, makes many wonder whether tourists will love the ancient wonder of Angkor to death.

PENANG ON THE REBOUND2 - Asia's first resort island of Penang fell on hard times as the tourist traffic moved to beaches with bigger buzz, like Bali and Phuket. But with the lavish restoration of the Shangri-la Rasa Sayang, fantastic fusion cuisine and some of the finest historical architecture in Asia, Penang is on the rise. (see new version, above!)

HIP HO CHI MINH - Once the most freewheeling city in Asia, a few decades after the war, former Saigon is roaring again. Vietnam claims the second-fastest growing economy in the region after China. With scores of chic clubs, swank new hotels, a vibrant arts scene and killer cuisine, Ho Chi Minh is hip.

VIETNAM'S COOL COAST - With spectacular sand dunes, the area around Mui Ne has been dubbed the Sahara of Southeast Asia. Aside from dune lovers, only seekers of idyllic seashore came for years. Then, winds blew Mui Ne's reputation around the globe, and kite-surfers soared to these perfect coves. Now,  Vietnam's hip hideaway is secret no more.

CAMBODIA'S CAPITAL CUISINE - Phnom Penh has long claimed a wide array of international restaurants, but these have been renowned across Asia more for hearty servings and cheap prices than quality or atmosphere. But a trio of new Cambodian restaurants raise the bar higher.

CRASHING NORTH KOREA - Armed with pictures of his fake family and new passport, a reporter crashes the world's weirdest film festival to find an entire country serving as set for a science fiction flick. Sadly, the cast is composed of real people cheated by the fraudulent People's Paradise of North Korea.

INSIDE THE AXIS OF EVIL - Bomb blasts, 24/7 streaming-propaganda and a mock internet, deserted streets and stark countryside typify the world's biggest worry. Yet a plunge inside the pitiful "People's Paradise" reveals a bankrupt regime desperately wielding absurd Weapons of Mass Deception.

TRAIN TO TIBET - Nobody believed it possible, but Beijing spent billions to create the world's highest altitude railway, which began breathtaking runs to the Rooftop of the World in July. Chinese cheered, but Tibetans worry it's just a Golden Spike in the coffin for their Shangri-la.

TIBET AT A CROSSROADS - The new railway not only brings increased tourism to the Rooftop of the World, but an opportunity to change direction and grow. As more and more Chinese move to Tibet, many worry that their influence is pushing progress too fast, and that the magic that attracted them to Tibet will be trampled by tourism.

REVOLUTIONARY ART - During the Vietnam War it was produced by the hundreds, on sides of buildings, lamp posts and trees. But now the art of war is celebrated in "Dogma," the first book of Vietnam's propaganda posters.

HEALTH TOURISM - As the cost of health care continues to soar out-of-sight in the West, plenty of patients are coming to Asia, where they can combine sun, sand and surgery, and save a bundle thanks to the booming industry of health tourism.

NEW REALISM - Vietnam's communist controls have  kept patriotic themes on screen, and bored viewers dashing for bootleg Hollywood discs. But, with an all-star cast, a new film, "Saigon Eclipse," aims to spark a cinema revolution.

  A SURVIVOR'S STORY - The Cambodia Tribunal hopes to gather victims, explain the carnage and foster reconciliation with the Khmer Rouge, three decades after their murderous rule. But the same thing has already been done, rather well, by a shocking film, "S-21: The Khmer Rouge Killing Machine.”

  HONG KONG'S NEW BUZZ - With scores of new clubs, flash hotels and world-class attractions beyond Disneyland, rumors of the demise of this former British colony are greatly, gladly exaggerated. Present-day Hong Kong is vibrant, exciting, back to its pre-1997 peak.

  HONG KONG YOGA BOOM - Forget inner peace and anonymity. In Hong Kong, yoga is taught in five-star salons, the biggest and most expensive in the world. Two takes: Hong Kong's Caviar of Yoga and the fitness barons behind Hong Kong's yoga boom.

  THE BUZZ ABOUT BHUTAN - Long hidden at the very rooftop of world, the tiny kingdom of Bhutan has banked both on its remote location and a policy of extreme  isolation to preserve its culture. But now, in welcoming the world, many wonder if this precious Shangri-la can survive its own significant buzz.

   MICKEY MOUSE MEETS MAO - What happens when the world's largest entertainment company woos the world's largest market? The answer has already reinvigorated Hong Kong, where the opening of Disneyland is only the first splash in a tidal wave of new attractions.

   THE ELEPHANT WOODSTOCK - Every year, they come to feed, frolic, fight and mate in full view of joyous spectators. Earlier, as many as 50 elephants at a time paraded through the streets of Kandy for the spectacular Perahera, but hundred more make the annual trek to "The Gathering."

      And coming soon:

     Oliver Stone - back with Wall Stree II and visiting Southeast Asia.
     Bangkok's hidden jungle, an amazing urban retreat few locals even know, just 30 minutes from downtown!
     Surfing in paradise - unique online community sprouts real-world island resort in Fiji supported Survivor-MY Space style with global Tribe.
     Dhammakaya Temple - world's largest monk ordinations are held in vast gold-plated temple (UFO-shaped) by movement that has worldwide reach; a first reporter view inside!
     Riviera reborn? Thailand's southern region gets a revamp with a wave of world-class retreats.
     To Catch a Thief.  One of world's leading art authenticity experts is caught in astounding act of plagiarism; a gluckman.com world exclusive.
     24 hours in Bangkok - an inside guide.
     The Big Deal on Building Big. Top architects discuss sustainability of super tall structures and alternative icons.
     Surprise outsourcing center: Vietnam captures a commanding slice of computer game business.
     Nearly extinct in India and across Asia, a rare bird is nestled in the far north of Cambodia.
     Return from Darkness. Sierra Leone slowly slumps towards normalcy.
     Indian Jones deja-vu: long-last temples rediscovered in Cambodia.
     Green Tourism. Checking into pair of carbon-neutral hotels in China and Cambodia.

PHOTO CREDITS: Bill Bensley and Bill Heinecke courtesy of Forbes., Hong Kong yoga by Gerhard Joren; Vietnam propaganda www.dogmavietnam.com, Bangkok Tattoo from book jacket; Tony Fernandes courtesy Air Asia. Museum picture courtesy Museu do Oriente; Palm courtesy of Nakheel;  Cambodian deportee with tattoos courtesy of Stuart Isett (©2008 Stuart Isett - http://isett.com); dolphin courtesy Mekong Discovery Trail
    All other photos by Ron Gluckman

   All contents (unless noted) are the property of Ron Gluckman, protected by international copyright laws and cannot be reproduced except with the permission of Ron Gluckman